What the best bakers do differently
Quality starts with the chocolate. Specialist bakers use proper bâtons de chocolat – thin, bake-stable dark chocolate sticks, typically 44–55% cocoa – placed at each end of the rolled pastry so every bite gets a little. Cheaper versions may use a single smear of chocolate filling or a compound chocolate made with vegetable fat.
The pastry should show distinct layers on the cut ends, look glossy from a light egg wash, and be properly baked through so the base is crisp, not doughy. Underneath, a little caramelised butter on the paper is a good sign rather than a bad one.
Chocolatine or pain au chocolat?
Ask for a pain au chocolat in Toulouse or Bordeaux and you may be gently corrected: in much of south-west France the same pastry is called a chocolatine, and the naming debate is a long-running, good-humoured argument. In Britain you will occasionally see it labelled 'chocolate croissant', especially in chains and supermarkets, though the shape and the bakers' terminology are rather different.
- Pain au chocolat – rectangular, rolled, two batons inside
- Chocolate croissant – crescent-shaped, sometimes filled with chocolate spread
- Pain au chocolat aux amandes – twice-baked with frangipane and flaked almonds
- Double chocolate – chocolate pastry dough wrapped around the batons